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Tripe

Tripe

Tripe isn’t really seasonal – especially since most tripe is sold frozen (and recovers well from defrosting) but it fits nicely into October as Hugh’s Devon Ruby’s calve outdoors in April or May , which means, 30 months later, they are ready for slaughter in September or October.
Tripe is the stomach of an animal. Or, in the case of ox tripe, any one of the cow’s four stomachs. Its curious honeycomb texture and visceral, gutty flavour make it perhaps the most challenging of all the offal cuts – beloved by enthusiasts and reviled by detractors in equal measure. (Many who profess to loathe it have, of course, never tasted it – and wouldn’t dream of doing so.)

It is sad to think that most tripe lovers are probably among our older citizens, who retain an affection for it from the ‘good old days’. I wonder if our taste for this offal is, with them, dying out, and in danger of extinguishing altogether. Not if I can help it!

I discovered this dish in a restaurant in Buenos Aires, and improvised it when I got home. The spiciness of the chorizo means that the distinctive flavour of the tripe is not too prominent.

 

Ingredients:


- 750g blanched ox tripe
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- two 400g tins of tomatoes
- 225g chorizo, cut into slices 5mm thick
- 1 small onion, thinly sliced
- 1 large carrot, cut into thickish matchsticks
- 150ml white wine
- 300ml beef or chicken stock
- 2 teaspoons tomato puree
- 225g cooked chickpeas
- a good pinch of cayenne pepper
- salt and freshly ground black pepper

Wash the tripe thoroughly and cut it into slices 2cm thick. Heat all but ½ tablespoon of the oil in a pan and add the garlic. Just before the garlic takes colour, add the tomatoes, then turn up the heat and allow them to bubble until most of the liquid has evaporated and the tomatoes are reduced to a thick, pulpy sauce. Stir the tomatoes frequently while they are cooking to break them up and prevent the sauce catching on the bottom of the pan. When you think you cannot reduce them any further without risk of burning, remove from the heat and set aside.
Heat the remaining oil in a separate pan and fry the chorizo gently until it is lightly browned and some of the fat has been released. Add the onion and carrot and sweat for a few minutes, until the onion has softened a little.

Add the wine, stock and tomato puree, bring to the boil and allow to bubble vigorously until the liquid is reduced by a third. Then add the tripe, cooked chickpeas, cayenne and tomato sauce, mixing them all well together. Turn down the heat and simmer gently for 25 minutes, uncovered, until the tripe is tender. Season with a little black pepper, and salt if necessary.

Serve in warmed soup bowls so that everyone gets plenty of sauce.