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Hare

The eating qualities of hare have long been celebrated, and there is still a regular market to supply those in the know. Good butchers may keep them in stock, but to be sure of getting one you should order it a few days in advance.

The price of a hare may vary considerably according to local availability but they are rarely expensive, and a large one will feed six greedy people. You may get a better price from a game dealer, and better still from a gamekeeper (you should get them for a knockdown price from a keeper just after a hare shoot).

The hunting of hares by almost any method is becoming controversial. Some conservationists maintain that hares are in great decline and should be protected. Many farmers, on the other hand, claim to be overrun with them. The truth is that both parties probably have a point: the distribution of hares in this country is very uneven. Hares are not strictly classed as game, and do not benefit from a close season as such. But they do enjoy partial protection, in that it is not permitted to 'offer a hare for sale' from the end of March to the beginning of August. This is when they are rearing their young and, given the concern that has been expressed about numbers in some areas, I think it is appropriate that they should be considered off-limits during these months.