Give the mussels a quick rinse and a shake – you can remove any wiry little ’beards’ that are attached to the shells, but it’s not vital as you can pick them off even more easily when you eat them. Discard any open mussels that don’t close when given a sharp tap.
Place a large saucepan over a medium heat and add the butter and oil. When the butter is foaming, add the garlic, leek, thyme and bay leaf and apple and cook for 2–3 minutes, until the leek softens a little. Turn the heat up high, pour in the cider and bring to the boil. Stir in the mustard, then tip in the mussels and place a lid on the pan.
Steam the mussels for 2–3 minutes, giving the pan a good shake once or twice. Check the mussels and if they are almost all open they are good to go. If not, stir well, replace the lid and give them another minute. When the mussels have nearly all opened (discard any that remain firmly shut), stir in most of the parsley and the cream if using (it enriches the liquor of course, but it’s still delicious without it).
Season with pepper and serve in deep bowls, ladling out any liquor left in the pan. Scattered over the rest of the parsley and accompany with plenty of good bread – ideally sourdough – for dipping in the liquor.
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