Put half the smoked fish into a food processor or blender with the mustard, crème fraîche, sugar and lemon juice and blend until smooth. Transfer to a bowl.
Break the remaining fish into flakes and stir it into the blended mixture with the pepper and dill or chives. Taste and add more lemon juice, if necessary. Ideally, leave to rest in a cool place for an hour or two before serving.
Serve the pâté with a dusting of paprika, if you like, and with buttered bread or toast. A scaled-down version of this, on small pieces of toast, makes a lovely canapé.
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