If you have time, lightly toast the cumin and coriander seeds together in a dry frying pan for a minute or so, until fragrant. Then grind them finely using a pestle and mortar or spice grinder. Season the meat with the ground spice mix, a little salt and black pepper.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan, add the seasoned meat and cook over a medium-high heat until browned all over. Don’t overcrowd the pan – you will probably need to do this in batches. Transfer the browned meat to a large, heavy-based saucepan, using a slotted spoon.
Heat the remaining oil in the frying pan and add the onion, garlic, ginger and curry powder. Sauté for 4–5 minutes, until softened. Tip the spiced onion mixture into the pan with the meat, then add the chutney, bay leaf and enough water or stock just to cover. Bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer very gently, uncovered, for 1 hour.
Add the squash and cook for a further 1 hour, until the lamb is very tender. Adjust the seasoning, if required – if you want a hotter curry, you could add a good pinch of cayenne. Serve with flatbreads and/or rice, and a scattering of coriander if you like.
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